West Face [3rd Flatrion]

To approach this climb, ascend as necessary to the West Face (backside) of the Third Flatiron. The route starts on the north side, below an obvious, wide crack, ascending up to and through said wide crack (one 5.9 move near a #3.5 or #4 Camalot), then up and right under a roof with scant protection (5.9) which ends in a big move to a hidden side-pull.

The crux comes some 100' off of the deck. Place a a few poor stoppers at the lip of a small roof, then pull up into the dihedral above on juggy holds to place a good 0.5" or 0.75" cam. The crux is pulling over the lip and into the left-leaning, finger crack. A second cam (0.75-1") can be placed mid crux if desired. Make a nice technical move to establish yourself into good finger locks and complete the crack to a ledge of sorts. make way to the South (right) and belay off of a drilled pin and a slung boulder/horn.

Finish on one of several rounout, but easy finishes on the right, possibly

Friday's Folly Direct

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A standard rack one set of stoppers, small tricams and one set of cams to a #4 camalot. Include a good number of 2' slings, as the route and protection wander.

Protection at the crux is solid .5"-1" cams, but there is some rising traverse leading to this point which is 5.8 or 5.9 and runout.

The belay is a cord around a big boulder and an old pin to the side (so-so) to put the belay point above you, a pink tricam or #8-9 stopper can be placed in some so-so rock. It is your call.