Northwest Passage

To approach this climb, ascend to toward the NE Bench, as per the start of the Standard Route of the Third Flatiron, but then continue up the North Side on a trail until you reach a slot where the corner is turned to reach the West side. Just below this slot there are 2 left facing dihedrals. The leftmost has worse rock, but the one on the right contains a sizable bush. The route starts here.

P1. Belay from the ground for the leader to ascend one of the two dihedrals (pick your slog) which both seem to be about 5.6. Either one contains bird-shit-o-plenty and some loose rock. It is ho-hum at best, gross at worst. Belay above the top of the dihedrals.

P2. Look left at a series of face holds and cracks, this mostly traversing pitch rises at first, then drops, all while moving left. You will pass a few pins and an old bolt. The pitch is about 5.8. The fixed pro is dubious at best, but there are opportunities to back up the pro. Run left as far as possible, and belay at a reasonable stance with poor pro. The rocks ar eblocky and look loose in the area there. There is birdy doo on the first half of this pitch as well.

P3 is a nice pitch with only a minor bird-poop problem. The moves are unusual and redeeming of the climb, which otherwise would be a bomb climb. Climb up and left to the right-facing corner below the big roof, and place some good gear after a committing 5.9 move on a questionable hold. Jam and push through the 4' roof to a jug out past the lip and match on it. SWING the body out, and pass the roof (very unusual roof and crux sequence). Then pull up into a crack to gain the good slab above. You are in the notch that is cut though the East Slab's North Side now (visible in attached Photo). Belay in the short dihedral system on bomber nuts and TCUs.

P4. Finish on the slab to the top and rap off as for any other route.

P1 and 2 are disgusting and loose. Direct North Face or Jackson's Ledges will lead you to the base of P3 with less disease potential.

The route might be a 2* route if it were not bombed constantly by the droves of cliff swallows inhabiting the rooves above.

The bird poop pitches.

A light rack one set of stoppers and one set of cams. Include a good number of 2' slings, as the route and protection wander.

P1 is a bit loose and runout, but only 5.6. P2 bolts and pins are rotton and old, but only 5.8. P3 has a frightening 5.9 move (R), but the 5.10 crux is very safe.

The crux pro is a few cams between 1" and 2" (1.5" is best).