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Peak Mountain 3

Sabra

FA B. Gillett and K. Younge, 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

By nature, this feels like more of a good boulder problem, followed by some dingy 0-start climbing, but you can't stop 1/2 way up the wall, so you either do it all, or nothing. The bottom looked compelling, so we did it all.

The climb starts with a bit of a crux getting established in the crack/corner. Pretty good gear presents itself once you are established and again right before the roof. At the roof, a second crux is solved with a slightly strenuous move that will get anyone of average height up and around the corner but leaves shorter folks (

i.e.

5'2") feeling like 10a is quite a sandbag. Pop left around the corner, and put in a few more good pieces of gear, then stand up, and move left into another seam/crack. A 2 or 2.5" cam will go into an open spot in the crack (red and or yellow Camalot here) which is gear that protects the remaining climbing and should not be skipped. Head up the remainder of the dirty slab near that seam, protecting if you feel it is possible and good enough to be worth the effort, or step still further left past a small evergreen and into a right-facing corner, and head up to the walk-off ledge above.

The walk-off is a 2 minute affair down a short section of gully to climber's left and back to the base, 15 meters.

Location

This route is the most left of all of the routes on the bottom tier, so much so that you go up and left around a bit of a corner just to find it. It starts as a shallow finger crack in a left-facing corner that bumps into a roof, heading left under that onto a grungy slab with a seam.

Protection

1 set of cams from 0.4"-2.5" and some slings should do. Thin nuts are optional for the slab up high.