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Peak Mountain 3

Cry Baby

FA K. Younge & B. Gillett, 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Cry Baby is a good mixed route with a soled crux down low. Warm up before getting on this one.

Start on a few rectangular blocks standing about 3' above the Clivline Trail. The belayer must keep an eye on the leader and this ledge so as not to allow them to collide if the climber fails to get established before the second clip.

A tall climber can reach the first clip from the ledge, a short climber will want a stickclip, or a tall partner. Clip the first bolt, and head up and slightly right to get established on the line. With the first draw clipped, continue into the crux, heading up and right for the second clip. Make the second clip, and continue to head up and a bit more right for a second easier but still 5.10 crux. Very short climbers might find this second crux as hard as the first. Continue to the right of the 2nd and then the 3rd bolt and up into a left-leaning finger crack. Protect this well, and execute a 3rd 5.10 crux to get onto the top slab, again with a bog reach that those with short arm-spans might find just as hard as the 5.10d initial crux. Clip a 4th bolt, get up onto the slab, and then pedal up relatively easy climbing to a belay on the walkoff ledge. Hand-sized cams, a few large stoppers, or a very long cordalette around a rock provides a belay. There are no fixed anchors above this route.

Location

This is the leftmost bolted line on the bottom tier of rock. A finger crack between the 3rd and 4th bolts takes good gear, and there is gear to be had to get from the 4th bolt to the walkoff ledge that takes 1"-3" cams.

Protection

4 bolts plus gear from 0.3-3". The thin gear goes on the route, and the hand-sized gear provides an anchor.