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Peak Mountain 3

Burning Down the House

FA Gillett and Barndthouse
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This enjoyable and substantial pitch begins with a stout roof problem followed by sustained and funky 5.10 face climbing and then several finishing options. This mildly lichenous (climb it, folks) route starts from the middle of the cave-ledge bisecting the cliff. Set a bomber belay here after one of the approach pitches (we climbed

Intermezzo

).

We finished via the upper 10a corner with the old bong in it.

Excellent position and spectacular views from Auduban around to the NE plains.

Location

This has obvious roof moves out the right side of the nose of the wall, from the cave-ledge in the middle of the cliff.

Note: when adding this climb, I graded it the same as the guidebook/FA graded it.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. Offset mastercams were nice. Perhaps bring an extra #1?