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Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R)
Description
START: 25-30 +/- feet down, right, and up from the slab start, below a right-facing corner with a large crack.
"One Star" with either the Variation or with a large Cam.
The pitch, if you don't have a #4 (or maybe even #5) Camalot-sized cam is probably "R/X", since the falling body will encounter much rock.
P1 Climb the right side of the leaning pillar, [Var] then scary 5.5 friction and belay at an anchor under the left end of the prominent overhang/overlap. 70 ft VERY old school 5.5R
Variation: At the base of the pillar, step left and climb the left-side arête to the top of the pillar 5.4 PG-13; continue with the scary step.
P2 & P3 - See description in the Alternate Slab Start to Bullit.
Protection
Std Rack; include Green & yellow TCU's (Aliens or Camalots) for crack above slab on P1
Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
- 4Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R)5.6Trad