Rapier

Originally listed in MP as "Unknown 1 - on Saber Slab" and given 5.8+, "The Notches" lists it as 5.8 which isn't much different. I think I'll leave the 5.8+, more because of the 5.6+ - 5.7 PG-13/R approaching the first bolt.

START- About 10-12 feet right of Saber's "groove", at about the "alternate start" described for Saber. There's a bolt about 12-15 feet up [photo].

See also the photo of "Saber Slab" posted to Scepter.

I'd give the opening moves below the bolt 5.6+ to 5.7 PG-13 / R, so you might want to stick clip the bolt.

P1- Face climb up to the bolt (about 5.7 PG-13/R) then on up the the 4inch horizontal (crux). Continue up the crack and then the slab above (bolt) and a 2nd bolt higher up. Continue to the double bolt anchor on the right. 140-150 ft 5.8/5.8+. The slab above the 4inch ledge is about 5.6+ to 5.7- if you get there from Saber.

DESCENT: Rap with 2 ropes or 25 ft bushwhack back to the North Descent Gully.

Note that it is possible to Top Rope this climb (using 2 ropes!) by bushwhacking the 25 ft into the double-bolt anchor.

On the "Saber Slab" between Saber and the North descent gully.

Std rack - Green (#0.75) Camalot