- Edit (TBD)
Description
START: At the left end of a flat area on the trail about 30-40 ft left of the bottom of the North (right) Descent Gully, or about 25 ft right of Sea of Green (aka The Green Mile). Theres a bottoming groove that slants rightward as it ascends (Photo) and a clean face to its right with a bolt (start of Unk Slab#1). The "wind blown pine tree" is your objective for the end of P1.In my opinion, the opening moves are the crux. (And Sykes gives it a 5.7R in “Notches”, which is probably more accurate !) P1 - Climb the groove [Var 1] (crux 5.6 / 5.7R) to where it becomes a crack and then up to a 4 horizontal ledge about 30 ft up. From the horizontal, move left to the base of a hollow flake/shallow-corner [Var 2, Scepter, now highly recommended], do battle with the small but mighty pine tree, then up the flake/shallow-corner, then left and up to the big, wind blown pine tree. 120 ft 5.6 / 5.7 RVariation #1 Alternately, climb the face 6-8 ft right of the groove (5.5 - 5.6 PG-13/R) for 8-10 ft and move left and up, back into the groove/crack).P2 - Up the face above the wind-blown pine tree [Var 2] (watch the accumulation of pine needles!) into the arching flake. [Once considered virtually unprotectable, today try #3 or #4 Camalot(s).] WEBSTER: Layback & face climb the entire length of the flake (nice 5.6), passing a small maple tree, then up into an alcove below an overlap. Move right to the end of a four foot wall, [NOTE: at this point a new 2-bolt anchor is a few feet below you.] climb over the wall (avoid he dirty corner to the right) and finish up slabs. 100-120 ft 5.5 - 5.6Variation 2 - After climbing up a few feet, it is possible to step left (old 1/4" bolt) and intercept Sea of Green ( once erroneously called the Green Mile)
Protection
Normal Rack, #3 Camalot for upper crack
Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
- 17Saber5.6Trad