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Peak Mountain 3

Raptor

FA Nick Nordblom, Randy Marsh (1990)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

When Brass Wall gets busy, rise above and find a worthy adventure on this line up the far left side of Brass Wall's right side.  Not for the faint of heart!P1 approach pitch via Heavy Spider Karma (5.6) or, better yet, Topless Twins (5.9), bypassing the anchor to the platform on the left.P2 110' (5.8) From the platform, look for thin cracks on the left which lead into a rightward arch.  Step onto the wall and make delicate moves on fragile rock, getting gear when you can. At the beginning of the arch feature, traverse right with scant protection to a good crack.  Up the crack, belay from a stance in a left-facing corner; the gear is tough, but there are options, finger-size and smaller.P3 160' (5.10c) Three cruxes will keep you on your toes.  Climb straight up the left-facing corner, where super small gear in the thin seam will hold you till the first of two bolts on this pitch. Catch your breath as you move towards the white slab section, and keep an eye out for the bolt on your right - you'll be happy to see it.  The crack opens to take some gear, then shuts down, spitting you out onto better holds on the right.  Belay from a decent stance below a smooth, right-facing corner.P4 150' (5.8) Use big features to pull up into that smooth corner.  At the top of the corner, traverse left and up to a good crack system which gets you to a comfy ledge.P5 180' (5.9+) The moves off the ledge protect with a 0.1, and it won't be long before big holds get you to better gear placements. The pretty varnished crack soon runs out, and from here it's just pick a path to the giant ledge, calling out "Rock!" from time to time as chunks pop off.   One option veers slightly left to a chimney, then back right and straight up the overhang.P6 Look left for the low pillar to a 4th class ledgy traverse, leading further left, where you'll find a two-bolt rap anchor tucked up under a lip.  This begins your descent.4 rappels with 2 ropes, as follows:Rap 1 reaches a single bolt backed up to a healthy tree.Rap 2 reaches a wide ledge with 2 bolts and tat.Rap 3 goes ~200 ft ... stay climber's right to a bushy ledge with a tree.  Two 70's make it; two 60's would require some downclimbing.Rap 4 takes a single rope to the ground.

Location

Brass Wall, far left of the right side. Begins on a platform above left of Heavy Spider Karma and Topless Twins.

Protection

Doubles tiny to 2.5", nuts & RPs