Spectrum

This is a very good route, with a short bouldery crux and plenty of runout on moderate terrain. To get to the start of the route, walk left along the base of the Brass Wall until the good climber's track run out, then thrash down into a small gully. You are now near the start of the route, which begins by climbing a chimney in a very prominent right-facing corner system that arches to the right. Despite the wide-looking cracks, we found that we didn't use much big gear - 1 #4 Camalot was sufficient. The traverse on the second pitch is the psychological crux, but it can be protected adequately with small cams and brass nuts. The technical crux on pitch 6 takes bomber small TCUs.

Small to medium nuts, double cams #.5 - #3 Camalot, single cams #00 TCU up to finger size, 1 #4 Camalot. Mostly trad anchors.