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Peak Mountain 3

Tinkerbellfusse

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Description

Pitch 1 (5.8): Climb up the short chimney to the right of Birdland, above pitch 2 of Birdland. You can belay here to ease rope drag. Step down from the top of the chimney to get into a finger crack. Build an anchor to belay at the top of this crack.

Pitch 2 (5.8R/X): Continue up the crack, as it runs out. Continue straight up the face, getting some small gear in a small alcove, before running it out on the delicate face for about 50 feet. Finish at the bolt anchors for pitch 4 of Birdland.

Descent: Same as Birdland.

Location

This route is a variation to the right of Birdland. Climb the first two pitches of Birdland and then go right up a short chimney (optional belay point) to find the route, instead of going left on the ramp to the bolt. The route ends at the pitch 4 anchors of Birdland.

Protection

Mostly small gear, especially for the second pitch (got a small BD C3 in before the long runout).