- Edit (TBD)
Description
Junk Mail is a pretty good little climb for an obscure line that doesn't get much attention. It would surely be more popular if it was accessible from the ground. The rock is mostly good, and the lichen is minimal.
Start below the obvious dihedral. Steep but easy moves out of the gate lead to the crux, a left-facing dihedral with a small crack. Stem the not very well-featured walls of the dihedral protected by very small nuts and cams. This part felt a little harder than most Eldo 5.8. Then negotiate a minor roof followed by an easier crack.
Location
This is on the north side of Mail Ridge Tower (near the top). You can reach it by climbing
Dead Letter Department
or the first couple pitches of
The Mail Ridge
. It is also easily accessible from the
Handcracker
walk off. Scramble down to the chossy ledge system where the descent path takes a hard right. Instead, carefully walk left along this ledge to the first dihedral (which is left of a large roof). This pitch is just left of the third pitch of
The Mail Ridge
and
Lightning Bolt Crack
(which can also be accessed this way).
Protection
Mostly small to medium gear. Make sure you have some small nuts.
Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
- 15Junk Mail5.8+Trad