- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is almost a great route. There is some really fun climbing on surprisingly good rock and really good gear at the cruxes. This section of cliff is more often than not overlooked for pretty obvious reasons (
i.e.
it looks like crap). With some more traffic, the lichen could clean up nicely. The only other drawback is the loose rock on the top ledge. If you were not careful, you could kill someone on the trail.
Where the trail hits the rock, there is a shallow dihedral that leads to a left-facing flake/crack. A #4 is useful here. Cruise up that crack and head towards a tree right above you. Before this tree, look for a hand ledge that leads right into the obvious, left-facing dihedral (#4 here also, or sling a chockstone). Head up nice jugs to a little ledge under the crux dihedral that is capped by a tiny tree/bush. Nice sharp finger locks and stemming get you through here with a good nut or TCU for pro. 20 more easy feet put you on the rotten ledge where the 2nd pitch of
Rhombohedral
begins.
Location
Left of
Rhombohedral
where the trail meets the rock. From the top, it is an easy scramble (down and right) over to the rappel tree. New cord, as of today, and a single 70 gets you down.
Protection
SR, 2 #4s and 2 #3s could be helpful but not mandatory....
Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
- 30Bridget the Midget5.8Trad