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Description
This is in the
Pony Express
area. When facing
Mesca-Line
, this route is immediately right of the dihedral that is just right of
Mesca-Line
(the dihedral is
Dandi-Line
). It follows a thin crack with some grass sticking out of it (but the climb is very clean) to a 2-bolt anchor between (and set back from) the two trees.
Begin by ascending the ledge system to a pedestal. Climb the pedestal either on the left, right, or up the face of it. I found that the left is not good due to rope drag problems and the right is much better, but you have to navigate around a tree. Going up the face (which I did) was by far more fun, but it is unprotected. Once atop the pedestal, step to the face and climb the thin crack to the summit. I didn't find a discernable crux, and it felt easier than some other 9s on the West Ridge. It is a very enjoyable climb.
Protection
The pro looks sparse from the ground but you can sew it up. Bring a set of stoppers and mostly small stuff.
Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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