Poetry in Motion

An excellent, courageous climb up the west face of End Pinnacle. It is noteworthy not only as a brilliant feat of routefinding, traditional climbing, and boldness but also as the first route up this face of End Pinnacle.

To reach the start of the climb, scramble up the ramp to the left of the start of Welcome to the Machine. At the top of the ramp it is possible to build an anchor with .5"-2" gear.

Pitch 1 (130', 5.6R). Climb up and left from the belay about 70' along featured but runout terrain. You will find a few stopper placements as the climb passes the end of the first pitch of Endgame about 10' to your left. Continue 20' up to a beefy 3/8" bolt shared with Endgame. From here go straight up to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (165', 5.10-). This is an excellent pitch. From the anchor step left to a weakness and follow it up approximately 10'. Make a tenuous step right to a second feature that leads to a small roof. Both of these features protect with nuts. Pass the right side of the roof and continue straight up toward a large roof next to a corner. Place a #3 or #4 camalot just below the roof on the right side. Pull the right side of the roof and then step left to an awkward ledge. Clip a bolt and move left around the arete and up to another bolt. From the second bolt, make a move or two up, and then traverse directly left about 20' to chickenheads. The traverse is easy save an early 5.9/10a move. Climb up the chickenheads (5.8) to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (190', 5.10- R). From the anchor head up about 15' to a bolt. Continue straight up another 30' to a small bulge and a second bolt above. Make a long run up and left for 50-60 feet of unprotected but easy slab to a third bolt (5.7R). Take a moment to clean your shorts. Continue up and left a few feet to the edge of an alcove, then climb up to a bolt on its right side. Just above the bolt, make a hard move on some grainy rock (10a), and then pass easier terrain to the top of End Pinnacle. Body belay in a deep bowl on top of the pinnacle. A large chickenhead can be tied as a backup.

This climb has multiple runouts and scarce gear. Where gear is available, it can be tricky to place. While this climb is a lot of fun, make sure you are climbing solidly before attempting it.

See topo

Stoppers, cams to at least #3 Camalot. A #4 Camalot is helpful on pitch 2.