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Peak Mountain 3

The Way the World Ends

FA Scott Ayers + ?
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Description

A great, safe (for Rockfellow) outing winding it's way up the W/NW face of End Pinnacle with decent belays and great exposure.P1 - 40' (C1): Aid up the almost bolt ladder to 2 bolt anchor. Those with limited aid experience would probably be happiest with a stick clip. This probably goes free as a sport climb (5.13?), but just pretend you're not warmed up enough for it. (1x purple met - #1 if aiding)P2 - 105' (5.11): The crux, and best pitch on the route, head up the right facing corner/crack w/ 7ish bolts, some are superfluous but they prevent the need for big cams. Slightly more guano than you'd prefer for 5', but only slightly (full rack)P3 - 50' (5.11-): Head up the rest of the corner crack, traverse right at bolt and then follow bolts down and right to bolted anchor on left side of pinnacle. (bring what you need to get to first bolt, all bolts after that)P4 - ~90' (5.8++): Climb to top of pinnacle, clip bolts, down climb a little and enter the chimney pitch of Be All End All. Gear belay in alcove below roof. Extend effectively, use half rope technique, or climb with extra gravity. (full rack)P5 - ~150' (5.11-): Money pitch #2! Head up 5-10' from belay and start looking for a bolt on the face out left. Follow spaced bolts and gear, generally heading left, up the radical boiler plate face to 2 bolt anchor on sloping ledge. (full rack to #2, 1x #3/#4)P6 - ~110' (5.11-): Spot bolt ~10' up and left of belay. Trend left and up over  moderate terrain interspersed with hard climbing at a couple bolts (1x #0.3 - #1)Descent: Son of Gums descent (single 60m rope described on End Pinnacle page) will spit you out a minute or two uphill of your pack (easy walk in comfy climbing shoes)

Location

Maybe 30 yards climbers left of Be All End All. Start at the chossy, right arching mostly bolted 40' pitch. The Way the World Ends is climber's right of Dead End, the large arching right facing corner which ends ~100' up.

Protection

Single purple and blue metolius, 2x #0.3 - #4, larger wires helpful for P5. Confident leaders could probably get by with singles from purple Metolious to #4 with 2x #3. 14ish draws w/ many of those extendable.