Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall a.k.a. "The Butt Rocks Wall"
Description
[Edit]In the old days, this was the place to go if you were seeking challenging moderates or warm-ups for the exciting upper grades the canyon has to offer. To a degree, this is still true. However, in today's modern 21st century, the second and third wave of route development has turned this former one horse climbing area into stronghold of moderates and upper end test pieces.
The EBM/Butt Rocks area is also nice because it goes in the shade a little sooner than the rest of the Sunshine Wall, which tends to become a bit toasty after June. There is only one drawback to this beautiful area, that being poison ivy, which locals like myself just deal with by having a solar shower, soap, and lots of different medicinal ointments back at the car. Or, if you so choose, simply avoid this area during the peak summer months, only hitting it up in the early spring and latter fall. Winter time at this area tends to be a bit colder than The Big, Black Face, yet if you get there early enough in the morning, this area can be divine even if January. I've literally gone climbing here in the morning till I couldn't stand it anymore than took off and went snowboarding.
Oh my God! Say no more! This place is awesome and if you don't climb here at some point in your life you will have surely missed out on something worthwhile.
The area has a bit of historical significance and the first routes were named in honor of a gold miner who penciled his name, and a brief, temporal statement, on the wall sometime during the days of yore. The second and third wave of route smiths must have gotten bored with this old-timey theme and most of the newer routes have an obsession with our spandex and leather-clad cock rockers of the days of yore. And to think, "Rebel Yell" was one of my favorite songs as a strapping, young lad. Christ, I feel old.
Local climbing organizations
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