Rude Awakening

There is just something about the 5.11b grade on Spearfish Canyon limestone that boggles the mind. 5.11b in Spearfish Canyon flat out means that you are ensured some great climbing. However, there will be at least one section, or even a few sections, of the climb that will be puzzling and requires some feat of strength and creative technique that will more than likely not be worked out the first time you try the route.

Climbs like Winger and Mary Jane are obvious feats of brute strenth, if you can keep pulling and can convince your spent arms and fingers to stick with it you can send. And then, there are routes like this one, where you are in for a rude awakening if you think you can just gorilla your way on up without any tactical plan or technical prowess.

This route has great slab climbing to a bulbous, roof like structure with a black side and a blonde side...and this is where the fun starts, or stops, depending on your perspective.

Should you go left or right at this first roof? Choose your own way to fall...this crux is a bitch of a Rubix Cube. My beta involves sticking my foot into the crack on the right and using the face moves at the same time. Through a slow, painful and meticulous process, use a toe jam technique to give yourself the leverage to work your fingers up some small pockets. When you're almost laying horizontal, use a not-so-obvious side pull, in the right manner, and you're golden to reach a big hold a long ways up the face...that is...if you can hold on.

Or use the sidepull to give you just enough leverage to gain a small pedestal below the roof for your left or right big toe. Stand tall and carefull to gain the massive jugs hidden somewhere behind the bulge of the business.

Either way, expect to take a few rides here.

After this roof the eleveness of this climb never really lets up and it's a big, committing endeavor with lots of situations that require a thinking cap and some fresh tendons. My thoughts are the crack on the right is fair game for the occasional foot and hand jam but don't get suckered into it.

Take absolute advantage of a huge, hidden jug on the far left side of the face.

Use the next series of face holds to their maximum potiential and wander from left to right and back again as you snake your way up this long, fantastic route that stays on your ass from the get go and never really lets up until you're lowering either through the anchors or a bail beaner.

DO THIS ROUTE! It is hella frustrating but totally worth the effort!

A dozen quickdraws.