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Peak Mountain 3

Black Powder

FA B. Gillett, D. Snively, 2002
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb starts where the 4th class approach deposits you on the ledge system.

P1: (5.7, 75 feet, 2 stars) Follow one of the 5.6-5.7 crack systems to the right of the 5.11 bolted slab. Belay on the ledge to the right of the RF dihedral.

P2: (5.9+, 75 feet, 2 stars) The crux pitch climbs a fun, RF dihedral with arching roof. I would recommend placing gear in the right seam and using long runners on the gear in the roof. I guess the rope will jam in the roof crack. Belay at two pins.

P3: (5.5, 100 feet, 1 star) Follow thin cracks in the blunt arete, and traverse left under the summit block. Follow broken terrain up and right to rap anchors.

Rap 2 times from 2-bolt anchors. A 70m is nice, since the rappels are right at 100 feet.

Location

Follow the 4th class approach to the upper ledge system.

Protection

Rack to #3 Camalot, w/ doubles in large fingers ---> hands....