Binary Cracks

Binary Cracks is a good crack route that offers some good jamming and good protection along the way. In addition to the 80' pitch that is listed as independent climbing in the guidebook, one can add a starting pitch for 60' extra feet and a finish up a groove to total around 200'.

P1a. Start as for

That '70s Route

, and climb a 60 foot 5.8 crack pitch to the top of that short buttress  With proper sling work, a belay may not be needed, and you could perhaps continue without terrible drag onto P2, but belaying might be for the best.

P1b. Start just to the right of P1 of

That '70s Route

in the back left side of an inset. Climb up some 5.8 O.W. until it becomes a hand-fist crack. Protect here, and then head up flakes and cracks to the base of P2 after 60 feet, where you will continue easily without a belay or any drag.

P2. Step over to the right of

That '70s Route

to join a overlapping crack system. This starts with a low right crack that ends a body length after a high left crack starts. The 5.9 crux is where the cracks run parallel and are a bit thinner, and it protects quite well. Finish up on the left crack to a ledge, now totaling perhaps 150' feet. The route formally ends here according to Gillett, but a low angle groove can be continued to the top for perhaps another 50'.

This can just barely be completed as a single pitch with a 60m rope if you started on the alternate (direct) start.

From the formal finish, you can descend via a walk off, or better yet, head for the summit and pick your way back down to the decent anchors as for

Yellow Jersey

, rapping 100' twice to reach the access ledge.

This route starts as for

That '70s Route

or in an inset with an OW-fist crack just to the right, continues past the left/right overlapping cracks, and goes onto the summit in 200' total.

Gear from stoppers to 4". To do the alternate start, a large piece (6") could be useful but is far from necessary.