- Edit (TBD)
Description
Introduction: This basically climbs the rappel route for the Diagonal. It's chossy, run out, and only gets worse the higher you go. However, it's a fun adventure for those solid for the grade and looking to break away from the trade routes.Pitch 1:Start up a textured slab staying right of the corner. Climb mostly straight up, getting gear where you can in horizontals, to a bolted anchor on a tree ledge.Pitch 2:Move left off the belay under a big ledge and skirt it to climber's left in a bushy corner. Direct variations exist, but are unprotected and increase the grade. Continue up slabs above to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.Pitch 3:This next pitch is a bit contrived and incredibly loose. Climb up disconnected flakes to a roof, move out left onto the face. Climb up the low angle face, taking care not to break off holds, then mantel into conifer trees. Belay on trees.Descent:Bushwhack a few feet to the Diagonal descent trail and follow that back to the pitch 2 anchor. 2 raps with a single rope will get you down.
Location
Hike up from behind the visitor center to the Quartz Crack Face. Trend right along the wall passing the starts for Quartz Crack and The Diagonal until you reach a low angle slab in a big corner, just right of the overhanging wall.
Protection
Standard rack from 0.3-3, nuts, maybe some tricams.