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Peak Mountain 3

Epicormic

FA Nate Vince, Ben Massey 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Climb the low angle corner for a few feet before trending left on a slightly steeper face to a stance below the roof. Plug some gear in the finger crack and pull out onto the wild, nearly horizontal ceiling. Figure out how to pull the roof, and make one of burliest 5.9 crux moves around. Continue up easier ground and belay from gear (2 camalot) below the large roof. 50 feetPitch 2: Traverse out right off the belay and pull into the juggy corner. Continue straight up with increasing difficulty to a tricky move pulling over the final roof and out of the corner. Scramble up easy slab, trending left to the bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of The Diagonal. Alternatively, it is possible to keep traversing right off the belay, past bottom of the corner and up the final 5 or 6 bolts of the first pitch of Flight of the Manatee. 70 feetPitches could easily be linked but would require thoughtful gear placement and extensions. 

Location

Slightly north and around the corner from pitch 1 of the Diagonal. Shares a start with Flight of the Manatee, at the large low angle, right leaning corner. You'll see the roof with a finger crack splitting it about 30 feet off the ground. 

Protection

Standard Rack. Depending on where you finish you can make a single rope rappel back to the ground or continue on up the second pitch of The Diagonal or Flight.