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Peak Mountain 3

Gemstone

FA Gary Hicks and Jim Fuge, June 8, 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Start up the obvious large left-leaning off-width. Traverse left under the roof (turning the roof crack is Markingstone, 5.11a). Climb easier cracks in the left-facing corner above to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 2: Step right and climb a left-leaning hand crack with poor feet to easier climbing (crux). Continue in the same left-angling crack system; some variations are possible. There are 2 sets of anchors at the top.

Descent: Simplest descent is one rappel with 2 ropes. A comment below suggests a 70m rope will work, but I haven't tried that. If you have only 1 shorter rope you can get down if you angle hard to stay on the ascent route.  Or scramble down steep terrain to the west.

Location

Obvious left-leaning dihedral in the Gemstone West area.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3", optional larger gear