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Peak Mountain 3

Seamingly Hard

FA Gary Hicks, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Seamingly Hard is the often-admired-but-less-often-climbed slab left of Gemstone, and is a nice sustained thin face climb. It seams a little close to easy ground to the left at the beginning, but soon the quality of the moves makes up for that, as you follow a left-trending seam, passing 5(?) bolts. It's always a relief to get to the next bolt, the headiest part is a 20' runout at about the level of the Gemstone pitch 1 anchor. The crux is pulling a small roof after you clip the bolt after the runout. Next you'll join another left trending seam, passing a fixed pin, then the cracks widen and the climbing is noticeably easier. Find the Gemstone anchor.

*Bring gear for the 2nd half! It's not a fully bolted sport climb. *It is possible to belay at the pitch 1 bolted belay for Gemstone, but linking these into a 200' pitch is more fun, and means no potential to fall on the belay at the start of what would be the 2nd pitch. The rope drag wasn't bad. *There are more bolts than shown in the guidebook, but you'll probably be glad they are there. *This will feel hard for the grade if you're not used to 5.10 slab. There aren't many like this in the Sandias, so it's hard to compare. If you feel good on this route, you're ready for Questa Dome and The Tooth and stuff like that. *This might be worth calling PG13 because it's a bit spacey between the bolts (especially compared to sport climbing areas), but it's not too scary by slab standards. I think the only really dangerous place would be if you fell right before the 2nd bolt. Don't do that.

Location

The bolted route on the slab left of Gemstone is Seamingly Hard.

The easiest descent is to rappel with 2 ropes (or a single 70m rope?-which I haven't tried personally) from the anchor to the ground.

Protection

6 bolts and a pin. Supplement with nuts and cams up to 1". Larger (2"-3") cams could be placed in the upper easier section but smaller gear is also available.