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Peak Mountain 3

Dave + Jon's Excellent Adventure

FA Jon Crefeld + Dave Barone
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Description

"D J E A" is not everybody's idea of a fun crack climb. But if you want a range of interesting outdoor climbing challenges, here it is.

Crux sequence low in the crack is much harder than anything else in the climb. Much of the crack above that can be climbed without jamming technique. Sideways transition to upper section is either thoughtful outdoor challenge, or just awkward, depending on your taste. Upper crack section is: flaring, off-width, and short. The last hardish move near the top can involve the wide/flaring crack on the left with a crimpy sidepull out right. A bit of a spicy ending when wet.

Up the longer lower section of the crack, then shift left to finish up the short upper section.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Location

Obvious wide vertical crack in right center of main wall. Its upper section shifts left three or four feet.

    • see on this Photo

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Protection

Protection for Trad leading is standard rack, though note that some key parts of the crack are wide. Big gear is however not needed for the wide lower section. The crux hand jam move near the start is protected by a 0.75 Camalot. Upper section protection is straightforward.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this D J E A sector.