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Peak Mountain 3

Dave + Fred's Rainy Day Adventure

FA Dave Rosenstein + Fred Polvere
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sequence off the ground is much harder than anything else on this route. Perhaps can be done free at 5.10 difficulty. But then anybody who can get that short sequence without aid will be bored by the remainder.

So this route is likely to be more fun for a less-strong climber if the Leader or the organizer of the Top-Roping can get set up some Aid for stepping up with their feet on the first couple of moves (say like an etrier / aid-ladder hanging down off a couple of pieces of Trad protection) -- or perhaps just have another member of party form a temporary foothold by standing under the starting overhang with low hands clasped together. After that the climber is free to haul up through the face above on buckets (some might say 5.4), then some variety of challenge when they reach the slab above (maybe one of the moves on it gets up to 5.6 difficulty?).

. . (The First Ascent party climbed this all free many years ago, and their ascent has been recorded with a much easier difficulty grade. Perhaps a key hold broke off since then).

Somehow get established up in the dihedral - (perhaps 5.10 if done Free, much easier with clever Aid). Then follow the fun jugs up to a non-steep slab. Turn left and up slab (second crux, might feel like 5.6?) to the top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Location

Dihedral with cracks at the right end of the main face.

    • see on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

Details of Protection for Trad leading are unknown. The crux move near the ground is likely not well protected.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this D J E A sector.