- Edit (TBD)
Description
When Darkness Falls is a pretty good line to TR, and with sufficient OW gear (#6 Camalots and maybe a big bro), it could be a lead. The flake is large and thick enough that it could almost certainly take and hold gear. The slab above has only one small section of difficulty and would be pretty reasonable to runout otherwise, as it is quite secure, clean, and mellow.
To start the climb, one slightly harder move is required to pull up off of the ground and get established into the crack/flake. Solid and high-friction feet help keep the climb from being much of an offwidth, and it climbs more like a mellow layback. Ascend the flake, which starts as a #4 or #5 sized Camalot and quickly goes to #6 or perhaps larger (Big Bro or Valley Giant near the top?). At about 45', you reach the top of the flake, and head up and right on a slab, with a distinct crux on that coming about 10' above the belay, but this move seems pretty reasonable. Continue a few meters more up and right to reach the bolted anchor (with chain) as for
Twilight
and
Steel Gray
.
Rap or lower ~20 meters.
Location
At the left margin of the right side of the cliff, there is a large "tower" of a flake that stands free, some 4-8" from the wall on its right side. The left side of this is steep and vegetated, the right offers a positive handhold on the flake, and plenty of good feet. This is just to the left of the similarly graded climb, 'Twilight.'
Protection
TR or take a large load of very wide gear, perhaps 5-9" protection. The upper slab will be slightly runout from the protection in the flake.
Routes in The Shadows
- 1When Darkness Falls5.7+Tr