We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Shadowfax

FA M Frichette & C Lightburn, 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Shadowfax is an amazing looking climb that would be even better if it were not for the problematic approach and the first 15 feet of dirty corner. After that, the flake/crack is as good as it looks.

Start up a 5.4 dirty corner (no pro) to reach the base of the flake. Start slamming in hand jams and cams, and continue for about 80' of continuous climbing to the top of the flake. One can exit left to the anchor as for P1 of the climbs to the left, or continue upward, aiming for a gap between the 2 side-by-side overlaps on

Grey Pilgrim

, splitting them and climbing between and up a ramp, all the way to the P2 anchors for those other climbs.

One could place quite a few yellow Camalots along the way, if so inclined.

Location

At the far right side of The Shadows, there is a flake that starts 20 feet above a ledge and corner with a large pine on it. That flake forms a perfect handcrack for the majority of the first 80' of climbing.

Unfortunately, the base is hard to reach. You have to start from well below and scramble up mossy rock and loose stuff to reach the ledge, or...

climb the first pitch of

Solar Eclipse

,

Gray Pilgrim

, or Lunar Eclipse, and rap to the right from the anchor to reach the base of Shadowfax.

Protection

Take a full rack of cams from small to 3" with an optional #4 and extras in the 2-3" range. Much of the climb is #1-2 Camalot sized and is perfect jams. I don't recall placing any stoppers.