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Peak Mountain 3

I'm Your Huckleberry

FA M. Juth & P. Findley
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I'm Your Huckleberry is a good climb with several styles along the way, slab, crack, stem, mantel, but no matter your style, the crux at the top remains awkward, though fun.

The route overall both climbs, protects better than one might think at first glance, and is worth doing if you are in the area.

Climb a mellow slam up and left, up and left, up and left on a series of horizontals with occasional good protection. A competent leader should be comfortable on these, but this is not for those new to trad.

Eventually the end of the slab system deposits you on a sloping ledge, where you can see a set of cracks and corners up and to the left. Climb up to and through these, with good protection to the top. The crux comes in an awkward leaning set of moves at the top of the corner. Save a few Aliens and a gold Camalot for the top.

Top out, and set a belay on a boulder on a large ledge.

To descend, go back up and left (West X Northwest) to the rap as for Shangri-La slab & rap 31m to a ledge or 34m to the ground

Location

Down and to the right 10 meters or so of the main crack routes on the Tomahawk, there lies a slab with a few horizontals both before and after a bulge. Climb up and left on a series of these to reach a right-facing corner to the top.

Protection

A set of cams from blue Alien to 3.5" with optional 4". Doubles in finger sizes are useful. A long cordalette enables easy belaying from boulders up top.


Routes in Tomahawk Buttress


  1. 3
    I'm Your Huckleberry
    5.9+
    Trad