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Peak Mountain 3

Chicken Hawk

FA M, Juth & P. Findley, 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Chicken Hawk is a good route with good protection. It is brawny and only slightly technical for those with good jamming skills. This would be tough if you can't jam, I'd imagine.

Climb up a mellow slab, first right and them left. Go around a gooseberry bush, and then head left again up on very mellow climbing. Head out to the right with a few incuts and jugs at a ledge below a bulge, set some protection (thin hands or wide fingers cam), and go right around a corner to see Chicken Hawk. Climb up and into the flake in the right-facing corner. Just as you hit the rook, the flake turns to handjams, and you can get 2-2.5" protection. Protect overhead, and turn the lip of the roof (crux, 5.9+) in a fist-jam by heading left under it.

Protect again, and head up a good jamcrack to join

Kitty Hawk

to the topout. At the top, head left (West) to a good belay with a cordalette on a solid boulder.

To rap, head up and west to the top of Shangri-La to a 2-bolt and rings belay. A 70m rope will get you down quite comfortably. A 60m will merit some caution and require you to stop on a ledge to the right and downclimb from behind a juniper (safe but requires some attention).

Location

Head downhill from the Shangri-La Slab and over right onto a 3' wide ledge. At the very right hand edge of the ledge, there is a poison-ivy plant to avoid, which is easily done. Likewise, the large 'meadow' 10-15' below this ledge is a nasty poison ivy patch. Don't go down there or drop your rope down. Thankfully, this is easily avoided with minimal attention.

A mellow section of slab with good holds and a few points of available protection climbs up and left passing a gooseberry bush and then back right to access another ledge and set of cracks.

The first crack to the left is

Kitty Hawk

, a 5.8, once you get started into it.

Duck right and around a corner to access 2 more cracks, Chicken Hawk and Tomahawk.

Chicken Hawk climbs up a thin-hands to finger to hand to fist crack in a right-facing corner.

Just left of that, Tomahawk climbs up through a 6' roof via a horizontal off(ul)width.

All of these merge to the left up top to a universal finish and belay up on a good ledge with boulders to sling. Take a beefy cordalette to belay from.

Protection

A single run of cams from 0.5" to 3.5" with optional 4" gear or some stoppers. Save a long cordalette for the belay around a boulder up top and 10' back from the edge.


Routes in Tomahawk Buttress