- Edit (TBD)
Description
Beneath the anchors of Flowrider are two fine routes gained by climbing a dead tree leaned up against the wall. Both would be 4 star climbs if the quality of the upper half of the pitches went to the ground. But the tree climb and some chossy rock down low may mar the quality for some.Climb tree. Then climb 11+/12- through three bolts to a good jug. Pull difficult moves (12+) out left on small crimps, then back right to gain the slopey ramp. Here the two routes diverge.Left Route (Imperial Stout): mantle up to a no hands rest in the notch, then climb the elegant black streak (12-) to the chains. The upper bit is really nice climbing on pockets and patina, some of the finest stone at The Peaks.Right route (Unnamed): instead of mantling up to the no hands rest, continue right to a bolt, establish on the prow, and fight your way to a good rest out left (close to Imperial). Step back right onto the prow, and climb up a few more bolts of sustained 12- (including a big move) to the top. The upper bit is reminiscent of Black Swan or Pitbull.**Stickclipping the first two bolts is strongly recommended. Easily done by climbing Flowrider, and hanging draws on the way down. **
Location
Just right of Flowrider.
Protection
Quicksnips
Routes in 3. South End
- 15Imperial Stout / Unnamed5.12+Sport