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Peak Mountain 3

Up in Smoke

FA JJ Schlick 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Up in Smoke is the rather eye catching dihedral to the right of Giggle Drops and gets it's name from the stunning white anti water streaks on the wall, which resemble stylized plumes of smoke rising into the air.

Start below and just to the right of the upper dihedral on some less than enjoyable stone, to the right of a thick black streak. Thankfully, only a few moves delivers you into good rock and the steeper goods. The start has actually cleaned up a bit and doesn’t feel as scrappy as it used to.

The first crux comes in the dihedral, and there are two ways of doing it. The original route stays in the dihedral, possibly using a hold just around the right arête, while the path of least resistance strays well left onto Giggle Drops. Both ways of doing it are fun, but only one is the line. The dihedral eventually spills out into a welcomed shake before the next crux. A little toe tapping technical climbing and a few scruffy holds will lead you to some welcomed jugs. One last boulder problem guards the angle break. A great shake at the break let's you eye up the final thought provoking, and exposed climbing to the hanging anchors.

Location

Right of Giggle Drops, left of Control Burn

Protection

12 Bolts. ClimbTech Mussy Hooks on the anchor provided by the American Safe Climbing Association 4/2018