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Peak Mountain 3

Jodonna

FA Bill Boyle
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One line, four distinct sections. Some wonderfully enjoyable movement, along with a bit of thought required here and there.

A tough, overhanging start on sharp, somewhat painful holds through three bolts, followed by a much easier section through some looser, lower-angle choss (but good, solid holds exist—you've just got to look for them).

As the choss eases up, a gently overhanging crux section on tan-colored rock looms above with some big moves from small crimps, some slopey bits, a few welcome jugs, and some desperate movement near the top of the section.

Capping the overhanging bit is an awkward, ending roof that feels a bit desperate as you gun for the chains on holds a tad less positive than you'd like.

Location

The first bolted line as you head up the ramp to the left of the

Bad Bananas

"

The

Bad Bananas

"cave" 3 [[106511199]] 5.11d 4 [[106143623]] 5.11c 5 [[106693341]] 5.12d 6 Bungrip 5.13a 7 Captain Cupcake 5.12c 8 [[106309653]] 5.12a 9 [[106604484]] 5.11d 10 [[106607208]] 5.11d 11 [[106611485]] 5.11d

."

Protection

14 bolts, chain anchors. Some longer draws here and there, and a two-foot sling on the fifth bolt will help with rope drag.