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Peak Mountain 3

Western Front

FA Christian Knight and Jason Desmond
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a fairly low angle climb up the western faces of the

Bad Bananas

formation. The climbing is not too varied but you get high up and can travel fast.

The crux is probably getting off the ground or maybe the second move. The first pitch is not too fun but the upper faces make it worthwhile.

This route crosses

Be All That You Can Be

,

Good Plantains

,

Dancing With Feral Debutantes

, and ends on

Brain Full of Spiders

, so you are basically just following the easiest way up the wall.

P1

: You can reach the first bolt from the ground and is mostly to protect a tumble off of the ledge if you fall on the opening move. Once you clip the second bolt you traverse right for about 25 feet and join up with the end of the first pitch of

Be All That You Can Be

. Once you clip the anchors for

Be All

, traverse down and to the right for about 40 feet passing the second pitch of

Be All

and ending on a small rock ledge with a set of ring anchors.

P2

: Follow the line of bolts up the steeper face crossing

Good Plantains

at the last bolt for the second pitch and ending on the 2-bolt anchor for

Dancing With Feral Debutantes.

P3

: Continue up Dancing With Feral Debutantes

for 4 bolts and then stay right on the low angle slab instead of getting on the steep face. Follow 4 bolts up the slab until you meet up with the last 3 bolts of

Brain Full of Spiders

which ends on a set of ring anchors.

Location

This route starts about 25 feet up and to the left of

Be All That You Can Be

in a small alcove where the green tillite rock ends and the white quartzite begins.

Protection

P1

: 5.7, 100' 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2

: 5.7, 115' 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

P3

: 5.4, 115' 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection: 12 quickdraws, slings (to reduce rope drag), locking biners, and you will really want to bring a helmet.