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Peak Mountain 3

“We have a T-Rex.”

FA 07/01/2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route offers a mix of slab, crack, face and off-width climbing. 1st good piece of pro goes in the undercling.  Ascend to the deck. Continue up the flared crack for 5.7 climbing - sparse but fair placement.  Good footing and ledgy handholds continue up to the green scales.  Hand jam to and past the remarkably stable fin.  Crux is at the beginning of the off-width.  Dial it in for some spicy and interesting technical maneuvers.  Exit the off-width for brief face & arete climb.  Anchors with rapp rings are on the right. Rack for first ascent was composed as follows: Wild country friends: .75, 1, 2(x2), 3, 4.Totem: 1, 1.25, 1.50, 1.80, Metolius asymmetrical curved ultralight nuts: #1-10.Camp USA tricams: .125-2 (full set).DMM: dragonfly #3, dragon cam #2, 3.Wire gates and 60 cm slings x 10.Trango: 3 x alpine quickdraws.  First ascent: Daniel Brophy.  Belay: Dave Callister.

Location

The route is at the top of the approach trail.  Start to the right of the slab.  The belay station is new and covered in moss.  Bring a brush and show some love.

Protection

See description above. 1 set of nuts & tricams. Cams: #3 Dragonfly to #4 Friend. 2 x bolts, hangers, quick links and rapp rings are at the top.