Momentum Operator

This route would be a classic if it were: A) cleaner, B) on Castle Rock, just 50 meters away. This climb would easily qualify for 3 stars if it were not for the guano on the bottom end of it. (Note - as of 2012, it HAS cleaned up nicely)

Approach Broken Rock by parking at Castle Rock and going to the Country Club Crack area. Walk across the little bridge to Broken Rock and go then 50 feet up the hill to the right. You will see an obvious pair of super-steep twin cracks that reach a bomb-bay chimney and then another hand crack. This route is obvious and has a 2-bolt anchor fixed biners.

Tape up. Now climb the twin cracks via hand jams and stems to a tight-hands and fingerlock crux (powerful, and reachy if you are short). You can get the crux done either with brains or biceps, but be sure you have to have a lot of one or the other--it's a tricky sequence that you can power through if necessary, but beautiful if done correctly. Think footwork. This feels like a complex and gymnastic 5.10c, or a brutally muscular and insecure 5.11. Reach the anchors and rap or lower off after 60' of climbing. If you lower off, you'll be quite some distance from the start, so I'd guess that cleaning on second would be hard.

Cams from 1" to 3.5" and a few stoppers. Double 2s - 3s might help if you like to place a lot.