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Peak Mountain 3

The Verdict

FA T. Bubb, K. Arhendt, 7/4/20
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Verdict is an optional/variant 2nd pitch from the 1st pitch of

Hung Jury

.

The climb starts off fun and interesting in an acute flare, then it has a bit of moderate climbing before reaching a vertical crack section, then there is a bit more low angle climbing to the top. The good sections are well worth doing, and the rest is forgettable. At least it straightens out the line for

Hung Jury

and allows that to be lead as a single long pitch if so desired.

From the belay at the top of P1 of

Hung Jury

, look directly up into a dark flare. At the back of this acute squeeze, there is a hand and fist crack. A #4 Camalot or 4" Friend would protect the opening moves, but a #3 Camalot is also quickly available, making the #4 optional. Jam and slither up the dark corner to a lower angle section, heading for a dark band of rock directly above  At the dark band, some more crystalline rock forms a vertical section. While some of this appears rotten at first, the cracks on the right side of it are actually quite solid and take good protection. Climb up this and continue onward toward the summit, eventually hitting a lower-angle system that takes you behind a medium-sized tree before hitting the summit slabs (and belay opportunities) after well over 100' of climbing. The moderate climbing is not as well-protected, but probably it is not worrisome for anyone who can climb 5.9.

Belay up top, and scramble/walk off as for

Hung Jury

.

Location

This is a pitch directly up from the top of P1 of

Hung Jury

, starting in a 5 meter dark corner and heading up from there to the top.

Protection

A set of cams from 0.5"-3" and an optional 4" piece if you want to sew it up right off of the belay. A few extra pieces in hand sizes could be useful, as would shoulder-length slings to prevent any drag.