- Edit (TBD)
Description
This line blasts up the wild and exposed NE arete of Earth Angel. Start as for Touched By An Angel
P1 5.11/5.11+? Climb up and right over easy terrain, stem though the roof on the right at about 50 feet, at a stance above, move left past a bolt up the steep wall over a roof to the huge ledge on the arete with a 1 bolt and small crack belay. Note the rap anchor 10 feet left around the corner.
P2 5.12 Step up to the pillar, tip toe to the bolt on the left, then slap the blunt arete through the crux and a nice stance above. Crank patina over left to the architectural arete and follow it up past bolts, just below the anchor a .4 in a horizontal may calm your nerves. Belay at crappy stance on the exposed arete.
P3 5.12- Crimp madly up cool patina and dishes, trying not to ass sandwich your belayer. Move left to the even more exposed arete and enjoy the view, while trying not to look down. Belay at the 'Hallelujah ledge'
For extra credit link these two pitches (2&3) to avoid a belay in purgatory. Highly recommended.
P4 5.11- Climb the anti splitter above the belay until the gear become wack and move left on patina past bolts to the most exposed position of the route. A couple horizontals at the end of the pitch will take gear. Save a .3 and a .5/.75 for these. Belay on small ledge with a bolt and any piece of gear you have left.
P5 5.11+ move straight up past 2 bolts to a long thin move then step right over the gargoyle and ramble up easy terrain with horizontal gear to a mini headwall below the anchor.
Descent into Hell Rap straight down from the summit 60ish feet to a slab anchor. Rap 90ish feet to a hanging rap station. Rap 80ish feet to the Hallelujah ledge. Rap route to top of P1 then do a 30 foot rap to a station and then rap to earth.
Location
Northeast arete of Earth Angel. Starts the same as Touched By An Angel. Obvious arete on left side of the North Face.
Protection
70m rope. 2x red C3-.75 1x #1, #2 5 runners 7 draws (15 if linking P2&3) nuts useful.
Routes in Mormon Canyon
- 18Kicked out of Heaven5.12Trad