- Edit (TBD)
Description
Follow the line of weakness on the south face. Multiple options exist to gain the limestone band. We used a right facing corner. Found no fixed anchors at first belay but others were well equipped.I'll leave it to the first ascent party to comment on grades for each pitch, if they choose to. The overall grade should be taken as a loose guideline.Bring imagination and a sense of adventure and you will be rewarded.P1 - Gain a spacious ledge on the limestone band. Route climbs from the saddle to a short limestone corner. 5.7-5.9P1a - Move belay left to the ledge below the chimney. 4th class.P2 - Climb the bottomless chimney past a bolt then traverse left to a small stance with fixed anchor. 5.9P3 - Step left then climb cracks and face to summit. Three bolts. Optional belay 30 feet below summit. 510 Rap the route with two ropes.
Location
South face of the nameless 300 foot tower across from Earth Angel.
Protection
Gear to 3" (x1) 4" Wires 2 ropes
Routes in Mormon Canyon
- 2The Nameless Tower - Jacob's Ladder5.10Trad