- Edit (TBD)
Description
This fierce little line offers up great rock quality, technical and bouldery movement, some unique beta and a spicy run out to the anchor over a tiny, and somewhat dubious, cam placement. It is a good choice for boulderers!
Start standing to the right of the first bolt (stick clipping is highly recommended), near the start of '
White Salamander
'. Move left on sidepulls to reach a good incut near the first bolt. From here, head upwards on an amazing sequence of edges, crimps, gastons, and sidepulls until reaching a large incut, a bit above the 3rd bolt. From here, angle left to gain the arete, and follow this to the two bolt anchor.
After the third bolt, the difficulties ease, but the commitment factor increases. A marginally placed small cam or two may provide a slight increase in confidence. Or you can just ignore the risk and punch it straight for the chains. If you decide not to place a cam or if the cam doesn't hold, there is groundfall potential, especially if you fall near the anchor.
Location
This route is located immediately left of '
White Salamander
'.
Protection
This line has 3 bolts and then a long run out to the bolted anchor. This runout can be somewhat protected by a very small cam (or two possibly). Stick clipping the first bolt is highly recommended.
Routes in Main Wall
- 11The Chameleon5.12dSport