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Peak Mountain 3

Crescent Loon

FA Bill Kees, 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Crescent Loon is another really cool and varied, moderate trad route on Ophir Main Wall. Start just to the right of two low bolts, and make some power moves on positive and incut crimps to get off the ground. Plug your first pieces in the crack that leads up to

Just Another 5.9

, and traverse slightly right into the series of diagonal cracks (super cool rock!) that leads to easier climbing above. Traverse back left once the holds and crack run out. Here I think it's a bit PG-13. You can sling a horn and extend before pulling a short / easy overhang. Plug some medium cams in a slot, and then climb final slab moves traversing up and left to a two bolt anchor.

Location

Just to the right of two low bolts (Getting Bent, 5.10d) and one to the right of

Just Another 5.9

.

Protection

I took a double set of Totems / cams 0.2 - 3.0 - you could definitely do less if confident at grade. The first 3/4 takes tons of gear - then a bit runout.