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Peak Mountain 3

Marzipan

FA Dakota Millard, Ken Trout, 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start a few feet left of

Lincoln Lake Apron

on the bolted slab. The rock quality is good, and the route is fun! The second pitch needs some gardening.

P1: follow three bolts using golden chickenheads to reach the right-facing corner. Make a couple insecure slab moves above bolt 3 to get gear in the corner, follow the corner up to the fourth bolt step left, and follow more bolts to the anchors of P1 of Lincoln Lake Apron, 6 bolts plus gear/ (5.9, 30m ish).

P2: step right, and grovel over a grassy ledge above the belay. Place gear when you get it in the crack, small cams protect the moves to the bolt "reasonably". Getting to the bolt is PG-13, clip the bolt, and move up and right to establish yourself in the seam/arete. Follow the grassy crack until it reaches a lower angle, right-facing corner. Find a chickenhead to your left, sling it (or place gear in the corner), and step left. Follow left-angling seams to the anchors of Lincoln Lake Apron, one bolt, gear /(5.9 PG-13, 50/55m ish). (I originally led this pitch without the bolt, so enjoy it.)

Descent: it is possible to rap with a single 60m rope using

Lincoln Lake Apron's

intermediate anchor to get you back to the top of P1. When rapping to the ground with a 60m, swing uphill to meet the ground, and knot your ends! A 70m rope is recommended for the descent.

This requires 3 raps to make it to the ground with both a 70m and a 60m rope.

Location

Follow directions to Mt. Evans Lincoln Lake....

Pitch one is a few feet left of

Lincoln Lake Apron

. Follow the bolted slab.

Protection

Draws, slings, doubles to 0.75, small cams, and brass. Micro cams/TCUs are all I could find to get to the bolt on P2 (which could change with gardening).