Dear Sergio

This is the bee's knees, the cat's pajamas, about as good as climbing gets! It is long, difficult, well-protected, and extremely exposed. This route has been done from the ground with an 80m rope, but a 70m rope can be used in 2 pitches.

With a 70m rope: start in the corner below the

Sick Puppy

roof, climb up 2 bolts, and a few pieces of gear, arching right to a bolted anchor on the slab roughly 30' up. This anchor is perfect for a 70m rope. From here, continue up the easy corner until the crack turns and heads out the overhanging face. This is the crux. The crack turns into a thin seam and is protected with 3 bolts. Boulder your way out of the steep, and finish on one of the coolest moves I have ever done, a hand jam campus move to pull onto the hanging slab. Once on the slab, relax, and then tech your way up some thought provoking moves saving a 0.75 for the very end of the route. Lower to the mid-anchor and then rap to the ground.

With a 80m rope: do the same as above, just back clean the best you can for the first 30' or so, and use runners to prevent rope drag. Get it done.

It is on the next major rock formation (climber's right) from

Jabba

and

Gettysburg Address

. Start in the corner below the

Sick Puppy

roof. 2 low bolts identify the start.

A standard rack up to #4 (optional red C3), save a 0.75 for the very last piece of pro, and 7 bolts.