- Edit (TBD)
Description
There is a large belay ledge at the base with a great hole in the rock to stash your belongs. All pitches are sport and can be done with a single 70m rope, 11 draws (a few alpines), and an anchor. There is an optional 5th pitch (
Red, Red Wine
) at the the top/climber's left that will get you to the center peak of the mountain. This route tops out at the rightmost peak of the mountain. There are 2 bolt anchors with quicklinks at the top of every pitch.
P1 - 5.5. This is kind of funky, short, lichen covered alpine-like climbing and is a good warm-up for the rest of the climb.
P2 - 5.9. There is a massive ledge at the base of this pitch that can accommodate multiple people. Do a quick scramble to a nice face with multiple options on how to climb. In my opinion, this is the crux of the route, but opinions may vary. It's still a little dirty in what could be a nice hand jam but will clean up nicely as the cut brush dies off. The belay ledge at the anchor is a tad small, but moving it any further up would create some nasty rope drag. Maybe do a short pitch or simul to P3.
P3 - 5.9. Climb a really fun, left-facing offwidth/crack with a nice face with some cool ledges. Climb up the offwidth, and when you top out, climb up and over to the ledge to the climber's right to the next belay station. The follower will want to leave a draw up until they're on the ledge to prevent a nasty pendulum if they don't pull the move needed.
P4 - 5.9. This is my personal favorite pitch. It has fantastic jamming all the way to the summit on clean granite. There is a fun layback 2 bolts up past the belay.
You can rap off this with a single 70m or traverse to the climber's left to
Red, Red Wine
and walk off. The walkoff is steep but very doable. Some route-finding is involved required to get back to the main trail once you're at the base of the mountain.
I highly advise a few alpine draws on this route to prevent rope drag.
Location
The start of this climb is approximately 40 feet to the right of
Cold and Ugly
.
Protection
A 70m rope, anchors, 11-12 quickdraws, some alpine draws, and a helmet.