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Peak Mountain 3

Cold and Ugly

FA Jason Premo, Bennett Musick, and Brian Montag
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

There is a small belay ledge at the base. All pitches are sport and can be done with a single 70m rope and 14 draws plus anchor. There is an optional 4th pitch (

Red, Red Wine

) at the the top that will get you to the peak of the mountain, or you can scramble to the right to the top of the rightmost peak.

P1 - 5.9.  This has fairly slabby feel and solid rock once you're off the ground and is a good warm-up.

P2 - 5.10 (I think?). This pitch has a slight gatekeeper getting off the ground. There is some nice crack climbing to a great offwidth to a stem that could swallow a Valley Giant. You get a fantastic view from on top of P2.

P3 - 5.7. Get a nice, quick burn from here to the top.

P4 - 5.10a. Optional 4th pitch - Red Red Wine. When you've topped out, look climber's left, and traverse over maybe 50 feet to the base. It is smooth sailing up this pitch. You get a great view and an amazing lunch ledge at the top that will accommodate multiple people.

You can rap off this with a single 70m or walk off to the climber's left on top of

Red, Red Wine

. The walkoff is steep but very do-able. Some routefinding is involved required to get back to the main trail once you're at the base of the mountain....

Location

Follow the route description to the mountain. To the climber's right of the center peak, look at the obvious face with a left-facing offwidth approximately 250 feet off the deck. The approach is fairly steep off the main frontage road type trail.

Protection

A 70m rope, a quad anchor, and 14 quickdraws.


Routes in Music Mountain