Never Mind the Bollocks

NMB generated mixed responses. The first 40 feet climbed on good stone and set up some interesting moves. The final three clips ostensibly ascend a rotten pegmatite band that as far as we could tell has not been climbed. This really detracted from the route. The only way we could imagine reaching the anchors was on aid. A previous party lowered off a single bolt below the pegmatite. The bolting on the lower section seemed a bit off. The climber is drawn right around a tough corner if one chases the bolt line, but a simple move (5.10) can be set up left of the bolt line and still end up in exactly the same position leading into the crux. The crux on the face above was complex and interesting. A good solution for this route would be to drop the anchor down to the end of the good climbing, and it would be logical to move the third bolt left where it would be more in line with the climbing.

Furthest left of three bolted routes on the crag.

Nine draws and a rope.