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Peak Mountain 3

Japan Club

FA Paul Piana, Mark Ilgner, 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Japan Club has three distinct sections: flared fingers, flared hands, and a lieback. The opening flared finger portion is thin and balancy, but will accept reasonable pro in the form of stoppers and small cams. After overcoming the thin crux, enjoy a short section of good flared hands (in both main crack and side crack) before the crack peters out. Good foot cams move you into position to grasp the semi-solid lieback and high step on decent feet to glory.

Location

Located 40 yards to the right of

Wild Thing

. We walked off by climbing almost to the top of the crag and traversing climber's left, eventually downclimbing as per

Walking Up to Zion

and

Wild Thing

.

Protection

Set of stoppers, small cams. A BD #4 can be placed in the roof next to main crack if the small pro doesn't ease your mind.