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Peak Mountain 3

The Great Gapsby

FA 31 July 2014, Ben Boykin/Robert Kelman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Begin low on the right side of the Southwest Buttress by entering a flared V-slot. Heel-toe works best here. Wallow upwards, then span the gap to a grassy trough beneath the crux offwidth chimney. It is best to belay here, so the leader's screams & cries can be heard.

P2. Climb the offwidth chimney.

Exit either left or right at the end of difficulties.

Location

Approach: park at the lower Central Area parking lot, and hike in from the West trailhead of the Turtle Rock trail. Continue 50 yards past Holy Saturday, and the Southwest Buttress of Foreign Territory will be to your immediate right.

Protection

Gear: a standard Vedauwoo rack. A #4½ and two #5 Camalots would be comforting here.

Descent option left: climb up to and squeeze between the upper boulders to access

Topside The Daisies'

anchor bolts (45 foot rappel, then scrambling).

Descent option right: climb a short crack to a small ledge on the upper right and a 2-bolt anchor (~60 foot rappel due East, or ~90 foot rappel down the broad rib).