In Focus

We were unable to find this route in any of the climbing guides, so we are listing it as a first ascent. I doubt that it has never been climbed, but based on the roughness of the crack. it is clear it has not seen much traffic.

The crack is great for jamming and eats pro.

Reach the base of the Tangen tower as described in the rock section. Walk West around the South side (left) of the rock. You will pass a small boulder leaning against the lower South face below an incipient crack (this is the South Face right route from Rossiter, 5.9), continue up past two slots (the second cleaner slot being the Roach route.)

As the face turns right around an arete you will see two thin shallow parallel cracks that fail to reach the ground. The right crack disappears after a few feet but the left crack continues to the ridge above your head.

Start between the two cracks and make a couple of bouldery moves that will allow you to reach the left crack. From there, life gets easier, work up the crack until you reach the ridge of a sloping ramp. Crank up onto the ramp and head left for some 10 feet to an easy headwall that leads to the summit.

Descent - Make an exposed short rap to the West from threaded slings.

Standard Flatiron rack with an emphasis on finger and hand sizes.