- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start on the block, and place pro in the crack. Climb the huecos to the the left of the crack, and follow them as they wander up and left. When the huecoes die out, head up and right to pass an overhang (crux). Watch out for loose rock in this area, we trundled a toaster-sized block here.
You are now on a large ledge. Head right (east) and climb a short slot to emerge on the east face. Follow this 100' to the top (almost no pro but only about 5.5). The entire climb can be done in one ~160' long pitch (but watch for rope drag).
This climb is pretty good but is slightly loose right at the crux. You have to be clever stuffing cams in holes to protect it.
Location
This climb lies about 75' right of the regular route on the Lower Tangen Tower. It is really in the middle of the South Face. Only about 50' off the Royal Arch Trail, look for a block under a steep face full of huecos with a short vertical crack to the right of the huecos.
Protection
Standard rack to #3 Camalot.
Routes in Tangen Towers
- 12South Face Right/Lower Tangen Tower5.9Trad